Growing grapes from cuttings: how to grow and when to plant

Heat-loving grapes are grown everywhere today, propagating varieties and hybrid forms. For planting, seedlings are purchased from nurseries or cuttings are used. Growing grapes from cuttings at home is challenging, but gardeners aren't deterred by the difficulties. Growing their own planting material allows them to grow plants more resilient to local climates. Furthermore, this method allows them to grow full-fledged seedlings of their favorite variety.

Peculiarities of growing grapes from cuttings

When planning plantings, consider the region's climate. In the south, various grape varieties are suitable for cultivation, including late-ripening ones. In central Russia, the Moscow region, the Northwest, and further north, early-ripening varieties are selected. In the south, grape cuttings can be planted in the fall, and the seedlings will grow quickly in the spring.

In addition to the growing season, consideration is given to the variety's frost hardiness, disease, and infection resistance. In regions with short summers, it's recommended to plant this capricious "southerner" in greenhouses. Keep in mind that growing grapes indoors carries a high risk of fungal diseases. However, greenhouse cultivation will allow you to harvest good berries and enjoy their flavor.

Growing grape cuttings

Growing grape cuttings isn't difficult; even novice winegrowers can master the techniques. Adherence to certain agricultural practices, care, and maintenance are the main requirements for this crop.

Cuttings

Let's start with some terminology. Cuttings (or scions) are typically defined as portions of a grapevine shoot with several buds. To obtain planting material, cuttings are taken in the fall. This procedure is performed after the leaves have completely fallen from the bushes. Helpful tips:

• For cutting, select the shoots that produced the largest bunches of berries during the season.
• It is advisable to choose straight branches without any bends;
• Cuttings are taken only when the air temperature is above zero.

Two-year-old branches with no blemishes or bark defects are suitable for cuttings. The optimal thickness is 0.7-1 cm, but this varies depending on the variety. Some grape varieties naturally have thin vines.

Select healthy bushes with characteristics characteristic of a particular variety. The length of the cuttings is determined by the number of buds. The most suitable are those with two or three buds, although shoots with one or four buds also take root well.

Cuttings are cut in accordance with certain rules:

• the lower cut is made at an angle, slightly away from the lower bud;
• the top cut is straight, leaving a distance of 3-4 cm above the bud.

By making different cuts, it's easy to later distinguish between the top and bottom of the cutting. Sometimes gardeners cut the vine into long sections—60-120 cm—and divide them into cuttings in the spring.

After cutting, the shoots are tied according to variety, marked, processed and laid out storage.

Storage

Suitable for storage:

• refrigerator shelf (if there are not many cuttings);
• dry basement;
• a plot of land in the country where cuttings are laid in trenches and covered until spring.

In regions with snowy winters, it is convenient to store in snowdrifts.

Before planting, the cuttings are prepared for wintering:

1. Soak the shoots horizontally in basins or flat containers filled with water. The water should just barely cover the plants. Leave for 24 hours.
2. Then soak for 5-10 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (300 grams per bucket of water).
3. They dry it.
4. Wrap in cling film in bunches.

For better preservation, some gardeners coat the cuttings with paraffin. Regular plastic bottles can be used instead of plastic wrap.

Storage temperature: 0 to +5ºC; above this, the buds will begin to swell. The cuttings are stored separately, in bunches according to variety.

During storage, the cuttings are checked periodically. If buds are observed swelling on the shoots, the temperature is reduced. To do this, the grapes are moved to a cooler place (in the basement) or to another, cooler shelf in the refrigerator.

When overwintering in snowdrifts, grapes are kept in bunches wrapped in burlap until the snow falls. As soon as the first frost hits, the bunches are moved to the cellar. After the snowfall, the shoots are packed in white sugar bags or plastic bottles and buried in snowdrifts. The top layer of snow should be at least 50 cm deep.

Preparing for landing

Grape cuttings that have survived the winter well take root quickly. Before planting, inspect all specimens, discarding any diseased or damaged shoots.

1. Inspect the bark of the cuttings. It should be free of dark spots, rot, or deformations.
2. Carefully cut the stem crosswise. If the cut is brown or black, the cutting is not suitable for planting. High-quality cuttings have light green cuts that are slightly moist. There should be just a few drops of moisture.

After inspection, the cuttings need to be "awakened." This is done to revive the plant tissues and prepare them for germination.

The grapes are placed in shallow containers filled with warm water for 1.5 to 2 days. After this, the shoots are immersed in a rooting solution for a few more hours.

Experienced gardeners plant cuttings directly into pots filled with soil without pre-germinating them. However, there's a risk that rootless cuttings won't take root. To be on the safe side, it's recommended to germinate the cuttings first and only then, with roots, plant them in pots.

Germination

To awaken the roots, different methods are used:

• germination in water;
• germination in wet sawdust.

Long vines are first cut into cuttings, then a few scratches are made at the base of the cuttings with a knife. This causes callus to form on the stem, which promotes rapid root formation.

The first option for germination is standard:

1. Pour some melt water into any 1-liter container (bottle, glass jar), to a depth of 5-6 cm.
2. Place the cuttings in a container.
3. The upper cut of the shoots is covered with garden pitch.

Place the jar on the windowsill and cover it with a transparent plastic bag to create a "greenhouse" effect. Add a couple of activated charcoal tablets to the water for disinfection.

Temperature ranges: +25ºC…+30ºC near the roots, +10ºC at the top, near the buds. This difference is necessary to ensure that the seedlings develop roots first, and only then the buds open. Kilchevskaya reduces the risk of cutting death and increases the chance of rapid rooting.

In addition to warmth, grapes need sufficient light. The best location is near a window, but a screen (cardboard or fabric) should be installed to protect against cool air currents.

The second method: sprouting in sawdust. To do this:

1. Pour a layer of sawdust (5-6 cm) into the container.
2. Carefully pour warm water over the sawdust.
3. Place the shoots in the container and add another layer of sawdust.
4. From time to time the layer is moistened, waiting for the roots to appear.

Only high-quality sawdust, pre-steamed with boiling water, is suitable for germination.

Planting grape cuttings in cups or pots

In the central and northern regions, after germination, the grapes are planted in prepared cups or pots with soil.

Suitable containers:

• cardboard cups;
• cut plastic bottles (1-1.5 liters).

Be sure to poke holes in the bottom to allow excess moisture to drain. Crushed brick, expanded clay, or calcined small pebbles are used for drainage.

Prepare the soil in advance by mixing fertile sod soil and river sand (1:1). Store-bought soil mixes are suitable, with calcined river sand and perlite added for looseness. When to plant? Around March, 2-2.5 months before planting in the permanent location.

Place the seedling in a pot, cover with soil, and lightly moisten. It's best to place one cutting per container to ensure the grapevines have ample space. Cuttings with two eyes are planted, completely burying the buds in the nutrient mixture (the top bud should just be slightly visible above the soil surface). For seedlings with three eyes, one bud should be in the soil, the second near the soil surface, and the third above the soil.

Plants planted in cups or pots without leaves are covered with a plastic bag. If they have leaves, they can be left without the bag.

Caring for planted cuttings

Subsequent care for grape bushes is normal:

• watering;
• loosening;
• maintaining optimal temperature;
• proper lighting.

Avoid stagnant water in the containers, but don't let the soil dry out. Water the soil regularly, monitoring the humidity. In city apartments, when the heating is on, the air is dry, which negatively impacts the growth of cuttings. To ensure a comfortable microclimate, place jars of water near the grapes. Water with warm, settled water, slightly above room temperature.

If the plants were covered with a plastic bag, remove it gradually, acclimating them to the open air. During the first few weeks, the seedlings don't require much light, but after the leaves unfurl, provide additional lighting.

Recommended for use:

• fluorescent lamp;
• LED lamps.

Temperature conditions: +25ºC…+27ºC, but even if the readings are slightly lower, it’s okay.

Approximately 30-40 days after planting the sprouted seedlings, fertilize the grapes. A complex mineral fertilizer (azofoska, nitrophoska) or Novofert grape fertilizer are suitable.

About 18-20 days before transplanting into the ground, the plants are hardened off. To do this, place the grapes on a balcony, terrace, or veranda. Initially, limit the time spent there to 20-40 minutes, then leave the seedlings in their pots for a day. When warmer days arrive, leave the plants overnight, and then, in late May or early June, plant them in the ground.

Diseases and their treatments

Healthy grapevines can only be grown with proper and comprehensive care. It's important to use healthy, fungus-free vines for cuttings.

To prevent diseases, treat cuttings before storing them for the winter and before potting them. Suitable preparations include:

• Fundazol;
• rovral.

Some gardeners treat cuttings with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. This treatment protects the planting material from harmful microorganisms and prevents the development of disease outbreaks during storage.

For the same purpose, when germinating, activated carbon and wood ash are added to the water with cuttings. If cuttings germinate in a sawdust substrate, it is useful to spray them with a Rovral solution once a week.

When growing grapes from cuttings, monitor the leaves. If the leaf blades begin to change color or turn yellow, this indicates a possible dangerous mildew infection. Promptly prepare Bordeaux mixture and treat the cuttings. Ridomil Gold can be used instead of Bordeaux mixture.

If the soil is overwatered or underwatered, the leaves will turn black. The same thing happens if the soil for the seedlings is improperly selected (too dense). Solution: immediately change the soil in the pots and adjust the watering schedule.

Planting cuttings in a greenhouse, hothouse or open ground

Not every gardener can grow grape cuttings at home. In the middle zone The green "garden" is transferred to a greenhouse. In the south, the cuttings are planted directly into the ground.

Planting in pots in a greenhouse or hotbed

The main work begins at the end of February. The steps are the same as when growing cuttings indoors:

• inspection of cuttings;
• disinfection;
• if necessary, cutting long vines;
• germination.

Instead of rooting in water, cuttings are sometimes planted in a greenhouse in damp sand. The air temperature should be at least 12ºC, and even higher is even better. These temperatures are ideal for rooting. Therefore, if the necessary conditions cannot be achieved in a greenhouse, cuttings are grown indoors.

With proper care, root buds begin to appear and buds begin to swell in approximately 19-21 days. When the roots reach 2-3 cm, the seedlings are transplanted from the sand into special pots filled with turf.

The greenhouse temperature is maintained at no lower than 24ºC to 25ºC, and humidity is monitored. When several shoots grow on the cutting, the strongest one is left and the others are pinched out. Once it reaches a height of 50-60 cm, it is pinched back. These cuttings root better in their permanent location and grow well.

Planting in open ground – late May or early June. The grapes are first prepared for the new conditions by leaving the greenhouse doors and windows open.

Planting in the ground

For grape cuttings, select a well-lit, wind-protected spot on the plot. Prepare small holes and compost in advance.

How to plant seedlings without stressing the plants? Carefully remove the cuttings from their pots or cups and place them in the holes with the root ball. Add soil and compost, lightly water, and compact the soil around them. At the same time, place a stake nearby to support the plant.

The specifics of growing grapes from cuttings in different regions

The process of growing planting material varies greatly depending on the region's climate. While growing seedlings indoors is rare in the southernmost regions, it's unavoidable in the north.

Southern regions (Kuban, Krasnodar Krai)

These regions produce abundant harvests of delicious grapes. Grape growing from cuttings is practiced, with the plants being planted directly into open ground. Popular methods include:

• autumn planting with a "long vine";
• planting in spring in wells ("ramrods").

In the fertile black soil of Kuban, cuttings quickly take root, grow, and subsequently delight winegrowers with excellent harvests.

Moscow region

How Grow grapes from cuttings in the Moscow regionThe best way is to use heated greenhouses or at home.

The Moscow region's climate is unpredictable, with severe cold often followed by thaws in winter. Early-season varieties with high frost resistance are recommended.

Only sprouted grape cuttings are planted in pots and provided with adequate care. Plants are not moved into the open ground until June 10-15, when the threat of dangerous frosts has passed.

Belarus

Many grape varieties grow successfully in Belarus. They are grown from cuttings, most often indoors, and sometimes in greenhouses. The climate in most of the country is mild, with generally warm winters. However, warm days may be scarce in summer, so it's recommended to choose early-ripening varieties. germination of cuttings at the end of February, planted in a permanent place in the ground at the end of May.

Urals, Northwest

The basic procedures and procedures for germinating and planting cuttings in these harsh regions are similar to those practiced in the Moscow region. The difference lies in the timing: winters here are long and frosty, with consistently warm temperatures not arriving until early June. Therefore, after growing cuttings indoors, the plants are placed in hotbeds or greenhouses in pots for the entire summer.

Once the seedlings are growing well and developing rapidly, around mid-summer, they are carefully transferred to larger containers (such as cut-down five-liter plastic bottles or old buckets). The seedlings are left to grow in these containers until September, after which the plants, having grown over the summer, are transplanted into the ground.

Before the onset of cold weather, the grapes are carefully hilled and securely covered for the winter.

Reviews

 Evgeniy, Moscow region

I usually take cuttings at the end of winter; I grow grapes that don't require shelter. So, it's entirely possible to do everything as early as the last days of February or early March. I cut them, then let them germinate, and immediately plant them in a prepared "nursery" in the greenhouse. From there, I transfer them to their permanent location around mid-June. I've been growing cuttings this way all my years, and I've never regretted it.

Svetlana, Saratov

The first time, about four years ago, I received cuttings of different varieties in the fall. They had three buds. I placed them all in pots with soil and sand, covered them with a plastic bag, and put them in the basement. They kept well; I checked them regularly and lightly moistened the soil. In early March, we got the grapes; the buds were already beginning to swell, so I put them all on the windowsill. By April, we had transported them to our dacha and placed them in the greenhouse. There, they happily survived until summer, and I transplanted them into the garden beds. Now this is the only way I do it when I need to grow a specific variety. Propagating from cuttings is easier and more cost-effective than constantly buying seedlings from a nursery.

Conclusion

It's not difficult to grow cuttings of your favorite grape variety, even in temperate climates or the Urals. They can be grown indoors, in a greenhouse, or even in a hotbed. With proper agricultural practices, you can harvest excellent crops from your own seedlings in just a couple of years.