How to plant cherry trees in open ground in spring

Cherries

Cherry trees are heat-loving southern plants, so it's best to plant a seedling in the spring. Over the summer, the young tree will have time to strengthen, develop its root system, and prepare for winter. This short guide, developed based on years of experience and step-by-step advice from gardeners, will help you plant a seedling correctly in open ground.

The right time

The best time to plant a young cherry tree is in the spring, just after the snow has melted. The soil should warm to 5-10°C (41-50°F) to prevent the roots from freezing. The best time is before the sap begins to flow. The newly planted sapling will "wake up" along with the rest of the garden and begin to actively develop.

Planting cherry trees in the fall is not recommended. Firstly, there's no way to control the seedling's development over the winter. Secondly, it's unlikely to survive frost. The exception is the southern regions, where winters are warm and snowless, precipitation is adequate, and summers are hot. Even in early spring, it can be too hot and sunny for a young plant.

Pros and cons

The right time for planting depends on the climate. It's important for the seedling to gain strength before frost sets in to survive the first winter. Therefore, in temperate regions, it's best to plant cherries in the spring, and in the southern regions, in the fall.

Benefits of spring planting:

Over the course of 5-7 months, the seedling develops young shoots and a root system, and overwinters successfully.
The planting hole is prepared in the fall, allowing it to settle. In the spring, the seedling is easier to plant without burying the root collar.
During spring and summer, it is easier to monitor the condition of a young tree – regulate watering, get rid of pests.

The disadvantages of spring planting include the additional expenditure of energy by the seedling on growing the above-ground part, while in the fall this energy is spent on root formation.

Attention!

Most cherry varieties are self-sterile. Suitable pollinators are needed nearby for proper pollination. Without them, the berries will not set.

Favorable and unfavorable neighborhood

Cherry trees are fickle, not only when it comes to planting but also when it comes to choosing surrounding trees. Before rooting a sapling, take a look around. If an apricot tree grows within 5 meters, their equally strong root systems will compete for space. This will lead to reduced growth, development, and yields for both trees. Apple trees, pear trees, and sea buckthorn will suppress compact cherries. Also, avoid planting near currant bushes, rowan trees, walnut trees, or peaches.

It grows best near similar stone fruit trees, such as cherries and sour cherries. It's also important to note that most varieties are self-sterile. When purchasing a seedling, it's important to find out which species are its pollinators, otherwise there will be no harvest. If there's no such variety within 100 meters, it's essential to plant two trees in pairs.

Rules for spring planting of cherries

Growing a healthy, fruit-bearing tree requires considerable effort. Planting alone requires a whole list of preparations. By following step-by-step instructions developed over the years, taking into account all agricultural requirements, even a novice gardener can handle it.

Choosing the right seedling

One of the most important conditions for successful gardening is purchasing a healthy seedling. It's best to buy from trusted sources, such as agricultural stores or nurseries. Pay attention to every detail. Some sellers include a variety certificate with step-by-step care instructions.

Rules for choosing a healthy seedling:

Age: 1-2 years. Mature specimens have difficulty planting.
The bark should not have any damage, cracks, bumps or discoloration.
The root system is developed with a powerful main root and lateral roots.
There are at least 3-5 branches on the trunk.
The thickness of the trunk is not less than 1.5 cm.
Absence of dried or rotten roots and shoots.
Quality guarantee – a visible place of vaccination.

Cherry seedlings with closed root systems are more difficult to select, especially if the container isn't transparent. It's important to assess the appearance of the above-ground portion. The leaves should be a rich green color, free of spots and growths. If possible, assess the root development by slightly pulling the seedling out of the container. Ideally, it should be filled with tightly intertwined roots of a uniform color, with no dried out areas.

A suitable place

Sweet cherries are native to the south. Therefore, the site should be protected from cold north winds and receive adequate light. They can be planted near building facades, fences, or artificial barriers. This will protect this heat-loving plant from freezing winds in early spring, when the sap begins to flow, but return frosts are still possible.

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Site requirements:

Sunny location throughout the daylight hours.
Lowlands or areas with holes or ditches are unsuitable. These areas collect moisture from melting snow or rain, and the plant dislikes waterlogged soil.
The southwest or south side of the garden is more suitable.
You cannot plant where the groundwater is close to the surface – at least 2 m.

Suitable soil

To ensure a good harvest, the soil composition must be carefully monitored. Cherries are sensitive plants and will not bear fruit in poor soil. The main criteria are good drainage, neutral pH, and looseness. If the soil in the garden does not meet these requirements, it must be corrected. Add sand to heavy clay soil, and clay to sandy soil.

The best soil for planting cherry tree seedlings is sandy or loamy, well-fertilized, light soil. A maximum pH of 8.0 is acceptable in areas with black soil. Otherwise, a pH of 7.0-7.2 is acceptable.

Distance between trees

When planting a new garden or transplanting seedlings into an existing one, it's essential to consider the spacing between mature plants. Otherwise, each crop will compete for space, inhibiting each other's growth and development.

When planting, consider the crown size of a mature tree, which depends on the variety. Cherry trees typically reach a diameter of 2-4 meters. This figure is used as the distance between trees. Row planting requires a distance between trees 1-1.5 meters greater than the crown diameter. This arrangement allows trees to develop fully without interfering with the growth of their neighbors.

Attention!

If the groundwater table is close, cherry trees can be planted on a hill. To do this, prepare a mound 50-150 cm high in advance.

Preparing the planting hole

Regardless of the time of year you choose for planting, it's best to prepare the hole in the fall. If you decide to plant a cherry tree suddenly, allow at least 20-25 days to pass after preparing the hole. This will allow the soil to settle slightly.

Step-by-step guide to preparing a planting hole:

Dig a hole 60 cm high, 70-80 cm in diameter with slightly steep walls.
On heavy clay soils, increase the depth to 70-80 cm. Add up to 20 cm of crushed stone, gravel, or expanded clay to the bottom as a drainage system.
The hole should be filled with fertile soil consisting of equal parts humus, black soil, and peat. To 1 bucket of the mixture, add 1 kg of coarse river sand, 0.5 l of wood ash, and 35-40 g of superphosphate.
Before snow falls, it is necessary to cover the planting hole with slate or film to prevent nutrients from being washed away with meltwater or rainwater.

Preparing the seedling

This step is one of the most important, determining whether the plant will thrive. If the seedling was purchased in the fall and is to be planted in the spring, it needs to be dug into the garden. To do this, dig a shallow trench, fill the bottom with sand, and lay the seedling at a slight angle. Cover the roots completely with sand, and the entire tree with soil. Only the top should remain above the surface. Cover it with spruce branches for the winter to prevent freezing.

Preparation before planting:

Place the root system in a bucket filled with water the day before.
Before planting, remove, dry, and inspect for damaged, rotten, or dry roots.
Trim any roots that are too long to fit the planting hole.
Remove leaves to prevent moisture loss.

Landing

This is the most crucial stage, determining the tree's future. Proper planting of cherry tree saplings in the spring will help them survive the winter. The first year is considered the most dangerous for the plant. If it takes root, all that remains for the gardener to do is tend to it and harvest the fruit.

Planting pattern:

Open the planting hole, dig up the soil, and make a hole corresponding to the diameter of the root system.
Drive metal or, better yet, wooden stakes into one or two holes, leaving up to 100 cm of clear space above the ground. These will serve as support for the young, slender trunk.
At the bottom of the hole, make a small mound in the center where the seedling will be placed.
Place the root collar on top of the mound you have made, and distribute the roots evenly around it.
Carefully fill the hole, supporting the trunk with your hand. Lightly compact each layer. The root collar should be level with the soil surface.
To help the plant take root faster, trim the central conductor (branch), leaving a height of up to 80 cm. Shorten the lateral shoots to 30 cm.
Use elastic material or special gardening tools to tie the seedling to the support.
Form a mound of earth along the diameter of the planting hole.
Pour plenty of water so that it is completely absorbed into the soil three times.
After 12-24 hours, lightly loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle, mulch with sawdust, hay or compost.

Caring for a cherry tree seedling

The gardener must continue to care for the young tree. It requires adequate moisture, loosened soil, and protection from pests. During the first few years, it requires more careful care. Later, all that remains is timely watering, preventative treatment with insecticides and fungicides, and crown shaping.

Care instructions:

Until mid-July, the seedling should be watered once every two weeks. After the rainy season begins, additional watering is not required to prepare for winter.
Fertilizers should not be applied in the first year if the planting hole has been prepared properly.
Starting from the second year, it is necessary to begin forming the crown.
Planting a healthy cherry tree is not enough; it must be regularly protected from pests and diseases with special preparations.
Remove weeds, loosen and mulch the soil around the tree trunk.

Once the plant is established, it will require regular fertilizing. Starting in the second year, apply nitrogen fertilizer in the spring – 120 g of urea. In August, apply potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

Common mistakes when planting in spring

Beginner gardeners often make the same mistakes. Planting and caring for cherries requires care and knowledge to ensure a healthy plant and a bountiful harvest. It's best to learn from others' mistakes to avoid making your own.

List of common mistakes:

When the root collar is buried too deep, the buds open later than expected.
An incorrectly selected variety threatens the tree with death from frost.
The absence of pollinating partners within a radius of 50-100 m leads to the fact that fruit ovaries do not form.
If the tree is not prepared properly for winter, the bark will crack, gum will begin to flow more rapidly, and the tree will wither and die.
The absence of lateral shoots occurs because the central conductor was not cut off during planting.

Frequently asked questions about planting

Gardeners generally have the same questions. They concern plant care, the specifics and timing of cherry tree planting, fertilizing, and watering. These questions are most often asked by novice gardeners who are trying to grow this delicate crop for the first time and are encountering their first problems.

Rules for planting grafted cherries

It's important to choose a plant suited to the climate of a given region. For temperate climates, this means a tree with a scion grafted at least 6-10 cm above the root collar. For areas with harsh, snowy winters, the grafting site should be at least 50 cm above the ground.

The planting technique is the same as for own-rooted cherries. The only important condition is to plant them so as not to bury the graft. This is rare, but it is possible for the scion to be positioned very low on the rootstock.

Growing cherries from seeds

This method isn't suitable for producing delicious, varietal-quality berries. After wasting time and effort, the resulting wild cherry tree produces small, unsweetened fruits. However, sometimes, cherry trees are grown from pits at home to use as rootstocks. The resulting plant will be resistant to adverse weather conditions and diseases.

Growing technique:

Remove, wash and dry the seeds from ripe berries.
Store at room temperature in paper until December.
In December, pour the mixture into a glass of water for three days. Change the liquid every morning.
Place in small boxes on damp sawdust. Seal and store in the refrigerator for 3 months.
With the arrival of spring, the boxes are opened outside and covered with snow.
After sprouts appear from the cracked seed, plant in pots, covering with 1-1.5 cm of substrate.
When the sprouts reach a height of 10-15 cm, transplant them into a larger container.
If the sprouts reach a height of 25 cm 4 weeks before the onset of frost, they can be planted in a permanent location. Cover them with a cut-off 5-liter plastic bottle.

Spring planting by cuttings

Mid-June, when young branches have just begun to lignify, is a good time to take cuttings. Cut 10-cm-long sections from the middle lateral shoots. Ensure each shoot has three buds. Reduce evaporation by trimming the lower leaves and cutting the upper leaves in half. Place the cuttings in a container with a rooting stimulant solution for 10-12 hours.

After soaking, plant the cuttings in boxes with fertile soil and place them in a greenhouse. After a month, the cuttings will have developed enough roots to be transplanted into a larger container for next spring or into open ground. Unfortunately, only 10% of plants survive.

Attention!

A tree grown from a cutting retains all the properties and characteristics of the original variety.

Spring transplant

In regions with harsh winters, replanting is recommended in the spring. Cherry trees react poorly to any change in their usual planting location due to inevitable damage to the root system. Only young trees have a good chance of survival.