Rules and timing for planting apple trees in the fall in the Leningrad region

Apple trees are considered the most resilient and undemanding crop. They are grown in a wide variety of climates, thriving in both hot climates and regions with harsh weather conditions. The Leningrad Region is no exception. Unlike northern regions, fruit trees are planted here not only in spring but also in autumn. If done correctly, the risk of a young tree dying is minimal.

Climate and soil in the Leningrad region

The climate of Russia's Northwest region is unsuitable for growing apples and most other fruit trees. Large harvests, juiciness, and sweetness are hard to come by here. However, if you plant regional varieties and provide them with the most favorable growing conditions, apple orchards can produce good yields even in these unfavorable conditions.

Climate features in the vicinity of St. Petersburg and in the Leningrad region:

• the climate is moderate continental, formed by Atlantic air masses;
• high humidity and a lot of precipitation, especially in summer;
• Summers here are cool and winters are relatively warm;
• gusty winds caused by the influx of cold Arctic air masses can dramatically change the weather at any time of the year;
• winter is unstable – frosts alternate with thaws;
• In summer, sudden cold snaps and even frosts are possible.

The soils in this region are not conducive to growing fruit crops. The poor podzolic soils that predominate here have a humus layer of no more than 30 cm. Other soil types include loams, wet peat bogs, and sandstones.

Apple trees in this region have a difficult time growing, as they constantly need to adapt to changing conditions. Young seedlings are particularly challenged, so in the Leningrad Region, apple trees are planted in the fall to ensure the most favorable conditions.

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Planting times and favorable days

Planting apple trees in the fall near St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region is no less risky than planting them in the spring, but it offers gardeners a wider selection. Nurseries sell seedlings primarily in the fall, so the selection is greater then.

If you decide to plant apple trees in the fall, do so in late September, or early October at the latest. This will give the tree approximately 2-3 weeks to establish roots. If you delay planting, the seedling won't have time to establish itself and will die when the frost hits.

Many gardeners and summer residents plant trees based on the lunar calendar. In 2020, favorable autumn days are:

• September – 15,16, 23, 24;
• October – 4.

The best varieties

Despite the challenges of growing apple trees in the Northwestern region's climate, it's possible to grow almost all domestic varieties here, not just regional varieties. However, early varieties should be approached with caution, as recurrent spring frosts often cause them to freeze during flowering.

When choosing a variety, consider not only the climate but also the soil conditions. If the groundwater level is too high in the area, preference is given to low-growing varieties with shallow root systems.

Popular varieties:

1. White Naliv. A summer variety with juicy white-green apples. The fruits are translucent and plump. The tree is winter-hardy, bearing fruit in its sixth year. Fruit weight is 100-150 g. As the tree matures, its apples become smaller.
2. Lavrika Memory. A local variety with delicious apples, developed by Leningrad breeders. One of its ancestors is Papirovka. Fruit weight is 200 g. They are very rich in vitamin C.
3. Antonovka. An old variety, winter-hardy and easy to store. The fruit has average flavor. This variety produces large trees.
4. Melba. A Canadian-bred variety. Grows throughout Russia. The fruits are very tasty, large, and keep well. The first harvest occurs in the fourth year of planting.
5. Uslada. A semi-dwarf variety. Fruit has a dessert flavor. It's almost immune to scab. Considering the region's high humidity, this is a significant advantage.

Other varieties recommended for cultivation in the Leningrad region include: Baltika, Aelita, Riga Golubok, Cinnamon Striped, Medunitsa, Antey, Ladoga, Orlik, and many others.

Compact, columnar varieties are convenient for growing in small garden plots. Winter-hardy varieties are preferred.

The best columnar apple tree varieties for the Leningrad region:

1. Welsi. The blocks are sweet and sour. An interesting feature of this variety is that the fruits smell like strawberries. This variety is winter-hardy, resilient, and easily adapts to various conditions.
2. Medok. A high-yielding summer variety with sweet apples. The fruits have a honey flavor. This variety is characterized by high immunity.
3. President. Semi-dwarf apple trees with beautiful yellow fruit. The downside is they don't store well.
4. Antey. A winter-hardy hybrid growing up to 3 m tall. It bears fruit in the third year of planting. The apples are large, juicy, and have excellent flavor.

How to choose a seedling

To grow a healthy, varietal tree, it's important to choose a good seedling. It's best to buy them from reputable nurseries and garden centers—only this will ensure the tree's varietal characteristics.

Rules for choosing an apple tree seedling:

1. A graft is visible on the lower part of the trunk, indicating that the tree is a cultivar. There should be no damage or peeling bark in this area.
2. The seedling should have a healthy appearance. There should be no damage or signs of disease on the bark.
3. Age – 1 or 2 years. Avoid buying seedlings that are 3 or older – they don't take root well.
4. Height – 1-1.5 m. If the variety is tall – more than 1.5 m, low-growing – less than 1 m.
5. It's not recommended to choose seedlings with many green leaves. They've likely been overfed with nitrogen fertilizer. Such a tree will continue to grow after planting, so it's unlikely to survive the winter.
6. Avoid using seedlings that are too short or thin. They may be diseased or poorly cared for. Such trees are not viable.
7. The roots should be healthy and well-developed, 20-25 cm long, with one central root and several lateral roots. There should be no damage, rot, or drying out.

When purchasing seedlings with closed roots, check to see if they have been repotted before sale. To do this, grasp the seedling by the trunk and gently shake it to check for root penetration.

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How to plant a seedling correctly

The technique for planting apple trees depends on the type of root system. However, there are general rules for planting seedlings, regardless of whether their roots are in a container or not.

Nuances of planting apple trees:

1. Sunny, well-ventilated areas are best for planting. An exception is for dwarf varieties with shallow root systems, as they don't tolerate wind.
2. Apple trees should avoid stagnant water. The maximum groundwater level is 3 m for tall apple trees, 2.5 m for semi-dwarf varieties, and 1.5 m for dwarf varieties.
3. The distance between adjacent trees is maintained depending on the type of variety: 5 m for tall trees, 4 m for medium-sized trees, 3 m for dwarf trees.
4. The dimensions of the planting hole depend on the soil type. In clay soils, the hole diameter is at least 1 m and the depth is 40 cm. Drainage is essential in clay soils. In other soils, the hole diameter is 0.9 m and the depth is 60 cm.
5. The planting hole should be dug at least two weeks before planting the seedling. This is necessary to allow the soil to settle.
6. Add two buckets of well-rotted compost, 150-200 g of superphosphate, and 150 g of potassium sulfate or chloride to the hole. The last ingredient can be replaced with a kilogram of wood ash. Mix all ingredients with the topsoil removed when digging the hole. Fill the hole three-quarters full with the resulting mixture.
   Clay and sand are added to peat bogs, and peat and clay are added to sandy bogs. Fresh manure should not be used when planting apple trees.
7. The root collar should be at ground level or 2 cm higher; it is prohibited to bury it deeper.
8. A support—a stake or board—is placed in the center of the hole. It is oriented toward the south to protect the seedling from the bright sun.

Planting bare-root seedlings

Seedlings with closed roots are completely ready for planting, but specimens with an open root system require pre-planting preparation.

How How to plant an apple tree correctly in the fall with open root system:

1. Shake the roots or dip them in water to remove old soil.
2. Trim off any damaged, broken, or diseased roots. Use a sharp, disinfected tool for pruning.
3. 24 hours before planting, place the roots of the seedling in water, or better yet, in a solution of Kornevin.
4. Before planting, dip the roots in a clay mixture - now the seedling with bare roots is completely ready for planting.
5. Form a mound in the hole, place the roots on it, spread them out, and fill with fertile soil. While filling the hole, shake the seedling occasionally to prevent air bubbles from forming.
6. Compact the soil, working from the edges of the hole toward the center. Use your feet to compact the soil, placing them along the radii of an imaginary circle.
7. Water the seedling with warm, settled water. First, add one bucket of water. Form a rim around the trunk, 0.5 m apart, 10 cm high. Pour two more buckets of water under the seedling.
8. Mulch the soil around the tree trunk with humus or peat. Apply a 10-15 cm thick layer.
9. Pinch the top of the tree. This will stimulate the growth of lateral shoots.
10. Before frost, insulate the tree. Wrap the trunk in burlap or other covering material. If the weather suddenly warms up, remove the covering, otherwise the tree will grow again.

Planting seedlings with closed roots

Apple trees, whose roots are in containers filled with soil, are planted in holes dug and filled with soil. These types of seedlings require no preparation, but they should be watered a day before planting to ensure easy removal from the container.

How to plant seedlings with closed roots:

1. Prepare the hole two weeks before planting. When digging the hole, consider the container's dimensions. Fill the hole with potting soil and add 2-3 buckets of water.
2. After two weeks, begin planting. Remove the seedling from its container and place it in the hole along with the soil—don't shake the soil off the roots.
3. Place the seedling so that it is at the same level in relation to the soil as it was in the container.
4. Place a support and tie the seedling to it with twine. Don't use wire, as it can damage the tender bark of the young tree.
5. Fill the spaces between the root ball and the sides of the hole with fertile soil.
6. Next, the steps are the same as when planting apple trees with open roots.

Planting in clay soil

The worst soils for apple trees are clay soils. Even drainage is useless in such soils. There's a high risk of root rot due to stagnant water. However, clay soil isn't a barrier to growing apples.

Features of planting apple trees in clay soil:

1. It's recommended to plant seedlings on the surface, rather than digging a traditional hole. This option is especially suitable for container-grown apple trees.
2. Prepare the soil for planting according to the standard recipe - from humus, fertile soil, ash or potassium sulfate.
3. Dig over the soil and remove weeds. Sprinkle the soil with hay, rotted sawdust, or fresh grass.
4. Place a stake. Sprinkle some soil over it and compact it. Place a 40x40 cm piece of turf in the center, with the grass facing down.
5. Place the seedling, removed from its container, on the turf. Cover it with the prepared soil mixture.
6. Water and compact the soil. You should end up with a gentle hill. Make a well for watering and pour water into it. Sprinkle with mulch.

Planting in frost

When all biological processes slow down, seedlings quickly adapt to their new location. But they must be given time to establish roots before frost sets in.

Even the slightest frost affects the development of the root system. If a seedling is purchased late and frost has already struck, planting must be postponed until spring.

For the winter, the seedlings are stored in a cellar or basement, with their roots buried in peat or sawdust. They will need to be watered weekly. When spring arrives and the soil thaws, the apple trees can be planted.

Care

After planting apple trees in the fall, very few agricultural procedures remain. Maintenance consists of fertilizing the area and watering the planted seedlings.

What to fertilize with

The soils in the region are extremely poor, supporting only coniferous trees. Apple trees grow poorly in loams, peat bogs, and even less so in sandy, gravelly soils. Fertilizing the orchard begins even before it's planted.

Some gardeners take a more radical approach by importing fertile soil. However, it's much easier and cheaper to apply fertilizer. Fertilizing begins even before planting. Organic and mineral fertilizers are always added to the planting holes. Apple trees don't grow well in peatlands, so they need to be deacidified beforehand by mixing sand into the planting soil.

Features of watering

It takes at least two weeks for the tree to take root. During this time, the tree requires nothing but watering. If the fall is rainy, young trees do not need watering. The first watering should be done no earlier than 7 days after planting.

The key to successful fall planting is the correct selection of timing, varieties, seedlings, and planting sites. By following proper agricultural practices and seedling selection guidelines, productive apple orchards can be established even in the unpredictable climate of the Leningrad Region, with its cool summers and high humidity.