Pear tree pruning guidelines for autumn: a guide for beginners

For many decades, the pear has been considered one of the most popular fruit trees. Its consistently juicy and sweet fruits can be used to make preserves, compotes, jams, and even dried fruit. To ensure a high-quality harvest every year, pear trees should be pruned regularly in the fall according to a specific plan. Because pears require a lot of light, gardeners should avoid allowing the tree's crown to become too dense.

Features of the procedure

Some pear varieties are characterized by relatively slow growth, but the crown still requires professional crown shaping. This procedure should be done regularly, regardless of the tree's age. Beginners should remember that There are several main factors that influence the pruning technique:

• age of the tree;
• intensity of crown overgrowth;
• julienne;
• type of pruning.

If the tree isn't treated promptly, overgrown shoots will gradually weaken the plant's immune system, leading to a reduction in yield. The fall pruning schedule for pear trees begins in late summer and continues until mid-September. Avoid overdoing pruning; everything should be done in moderation. If a novice gardener prunes too many shoots, the tree may not survive severe frosts.

Gardeners should not miss pruning deadlines, as the tree needs time to adapt to changes and the upcoming frosts. Opinions on pruning methods differ among experts today. Some believe that the yield increases significantly if excess shoots are removed. cut in spring, as there's no risk of sudden cold snaps or frosts. Others, on the contrary, prefer winter pruning, believing that the pear tree is dormant and won't be harmed.

However, as experience shows, drastic manipulation of the delicate pear tree during freezing temperatures is strictly prohibited. However, crown pruning in the fall prepares the pear tree for the coming cold weather and prevents it from dying.

Common types of pruning

If pear tree branches are pruned in the fall, gardeners can confidently use several techniques aimed at shaping the crown properly. The key is to prepare well-sharpened tools in advance. Depending on the desired goals, pruning methods can be as follows:

• Thinning. In this case, the specialist must remove all shoots located near the parent branch or base. This procedure is aimed at allowing more sunlight into the crown. This will result in better shoot growth, more foliage, increased yield, and improved tree immunity.
• Pruning. If branches grow vertically and need to be lengthened, this procedure is indispensable. This approach stimulates horizontal branching. Although the number of fruits will decrease slightly, their quality and size will increase significantly.
• Support. This pruning method is especially useful for trees that have already begun to bear fruit. The goal of this procedure is to properly distribute nutrients throughout the pear tree and stabilize its fruiting.
• Shaping. This pruning method is aimed at creating the desired shape and promoting vigorous growth of fruiting branches. This procedure can be started immediately after planting the tree, and should be repeated every five years. Before fruiting begins, remove the smallest shoots.

Necessary tools

Proper pruning of a pear tree in the fall, according to the diagram, is only possible with the right tools. These are readily available at specialty stores. For work you need:

• A powerful pruning shear. This tool is similar in functionality to a standard pruning shear, but has longer handles, making it much easier for the gardener to reach the highest branches.
• Pruning shears. Designed for high-quality pruning of medium and thin shoots (up to 3 cm in diameter). This tool can also be used to remove dead branches and young growth.
• A well-sharpened knife. Without it, it's impossible to properly prune shoots and clean wounds on a tree.
• Garden saw. Designed for branches with larger diameters (3 cm and larger).
• Garden pitch and oil paint are used for processing of cut sites.

Scheme for beginners

The first step is always pruning the top. If the lower branches are removed immediately, the pear tree's entire growth will be directed upward. Before beginning the procedure, the gardener should imagine the tree's desired appearance (a bowl-shaped or sparsely layered crown). Pruning a pear tree in the fall is easy for beginners, as the basic technique is similar to the previous procedure. apple tree processing. There are many types of crown formation:

• Pyramidal.
• Tiered.
• Spindle-shaped.
• Sparsely tiered.
• Cup-shaped.

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The correct autumn pruning scheme for beginners looks like this:

• Carefully remove no more than 1/3 of the crown. A flat, round, low, and wide shape is ideal. The principle of branch subordination is imperative. If you want to create a sparse, tiered crown, leave the central conductor and shorten the remaining branches slightly.
• The top tier shouldn't have more branches than the bottom tier. Ideally, the shoots should fill all the free space between the branches of the previous tier.
• When the young pear tree has reached the desired height, the central bud is significantly shortened (by three buds). The following year, the plant will not grow as much upward. Then, it needs to be shortened again by two buds to maintain a consistent height.

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Step-by-step instructions

Professional gardeners with many years of experience have developed a detailed guide for beginners. Thanks to this Every garden owner will be able to trim branches themselves.

1. Removing diseased branches and dried shoots. This step is considered essential, as any manipulation of the tree is impossible until all problem areas are removed. Only by doing this can the risk of accidentally breaking healthy branches be completely eliminated. If a shoot was affected by pests, then pruning should begin with the most problematic area. Dead wood is fairly easy to distinguish from living wood: during the spring and summer, it will not produce leaves or fruit.
2. Remove all basal shoots. Both spring and fall are excellent times for this procedure. Don't worry, as these shoots have nothing to do with the fruit crown, but are an extension of the root system. If they haven't yet become woody, you can simply break them off at the base. Otherwise, you can use sharp pruning shears or a shovel. If the shoots have become very large, it's best to remove them in late fall, when it's cold outside, as this is when various insects and larvae settle on the plant for the winter.
3. Pruning thick suckers, which almost always grow vertically, can be observed 2 meters from the trunk, at the base of large branches. They don't produce fruit, but they drain the tree of its energy. They should be cut as close to the growing point as possible.
4. Pruning annual growth to a bud. This procedure is crucial for a good harvest. Shoots should be pruned to a quarter of their original length. Several healthy buds are left on one-year-old shoots so they can develop the following spring.

Formation of a columnar pear

In this case, beginners should be especially careful, as the basic pruning scheme differs significantly from the traditional method. This is because this variety doesn't boast a highly branched crown. To ensure a neat crown and a prolific fruit production, you need to follow the following rules:

• The central columnar trunk (the guide) is pruned for the first time no sooner than five years after planting the seedling in open ground. If the gardener properly cares for the tree, it will grow 15-18 cm per year.
• If the topmost bud has been damaged, and several new shoots have already formed on the pear, then one of them must be cut off below the ring, leaving only the healthiest one.
• Proper care for a columnar tree involves thinning out lateral branches. Only weak, damaged, and dry branches should be removed. Thinning is also crucial if the quantity and quality of ripe fruit has significantly decreased.

Helpful tips from experts

Pruning patterns for young and old trees differ significantly. During planting seedlings Pear trees are always subject to some stress, and their root system can be damaged, which can lead to poor growth. A young pear tree spends a lot of energy forming its crown and restoring its root system. Pruning branches immediately after planting will help the seedling establish itself and develop roots more quickly. This will allow the tree to receive significantly more nutrients, which are crucial for the normal growth of fruiting shoots and fruit production.

To maintain the correct crown shape from the start, the main trunk should be trimmed annually, saving time on scheduled pruning. The gardener will only need to remove damaged and dried shoots. If the tree is several years old, pruning should be done twice a year. A pyramidal crown shape is most suitable for a home garden.

The best time to train a pear tree is in early spring or early fall. Once the tree reaches four years of age, the gardener can confidently begin shaping the second tier of skeletal branches. With each subsequent year, the number of young shoots will decrease, so pruning should be selective. Particular care should be taken with fruiting branches, as they should not be disturbed.

A perennial tree cannot produce a good harvest without proper rejuvenation. This procedure involves cutting down old shoots that have ceased to bear fruit. This thins the crown, improves ventilation, and stimulates new branch growth. It's best to perform the rejuvenation procedure in winter or early spring. It's crucial to do this before the sap begins to actively flow. The ambient temperature should be around 0°C.