Methods and timing of cherry grafting

Cherries

Grafting is the attachment of a cutting from one tree to another, which has a developed main trunk and root system. Grafting cherries and other fruit trees is the preferred method of propagation, requiring two components: rootstock and scion. The first is the main tree onto which the cuttings are grafted. The second is the stem, flowers, and fruit that are attached to the main sapling.

Why are seedlings grafted?

When trees and shrubs are propagated by cuttings, they are completely identical to the parent plant. However, if a fruit tree is grown from a seed, the tree will also inherit the characteristics of the parent tree, but the fruit is typically smaller and sour, and the yield is also reduced. Wild trees grown from seeds are used as rootstocks, that is, a base for attaching a scion—a cutting from a cherry tree or another tree with good-tasting fruit.

Grafting is used to create several different varieties from a seedling. Agronomists use grafting to create new tree varieties with improved fruit flavor, disease resistance, and frost resistance. Grafting is also used to create a specific tree shape (drooping).

Grafting seedlings has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include:

obtaining a fruit tree with improved cherry taste qualities;
preserving an old, dying seedling, which is used as a scion;
increasing resistance to diseases and frost;
increasing the yield of the rootstock due to grafted cuttings.

The disadvantages include the complexity of the procedure and the need for constant care of the grafted cherry tree.

Time of joining the rootstock to the scion

The most suitable time is mid-spring. During spring, active sap flow begins in the trunk, accumulating nutrients and moisture in the seedling's trunk. The procedure can be performed as soon as frosts end; if the nighttime temperature drops below 0°C, the scion will freeze and die.

Summer cherry grafting is only possible early in the season to allow the scion to establish before frost. Whenever possible, late-ripening seedling varieties are chosen as rootstocks to ensure all the nutrients are not lost to fruit formation. Fall grafting is permitted in regions with short, warm winters. Cherry grafting is not recommended in winter; this procedure is only suitable for apples and pears.

How and when to prepare cuttings

For spring cherry propagation, agronomists recommend preparing cuttings in the fall, when the leaves begin to fall, before the first frost. The preparation months vary by region, but the harvesting period typically falls in late October or early November. Cuttings can be taken in January or February if the winter was warm, but the survival rate of such cuttings is reduced. The branches used for grafting should be one year old, meaning those that grew over the spring and summer are taken.

The top of the selected section of the branch should have at least one shoot bud and several leaves. The cut shoot should be approximately 7 cm long. The prepared branches should be undamaged and straight, without any bends. To preserve them until spring, place them in a container with moistened sand or sawdust and store them in a cellar until spring. If a cellar is not available, they can be wrapped in damp cheesecloth, sealed in a plastic bag, and refrigerated.

Important!

If you need to graft a cherry tree in the summer, you can use freshly cut branches without any preliminary preparation.

Selecting a rootstock

Not every tree in the garden can be used as a rootstock. Only saplings of the same species are suitable. Sweet cherries belong to the Rosaceae family, so plums, cherry plums, sour cherries, and sweet cherries can all be used as rootstocks. The chances of survival are higher when grafting onto trees of the same species: cherry to cherry, plum to plum, etc. Similar fruit tree species are grafted to improve the fruit's flavor, increase yield, or to preserve the cherry variety if the tree is old.

Cherry and sour cherry trees pair well because they have very similar wood structure. Grafting a cherry tree onto a sour cherry tree results in a nearly 100% survival rate.

The most compatible cherry varieties:

Vladimirskaya.
Peak.
Gisella.
VSL.

Cherry-bird cherry hybrids are not recommended as rootstocks, as their cuttings have difficulty rooting. Cherry can be grafted onto bird cherry, as long as it is not a cross-hybrid. Good results are achieved by grafting cherry onto cherry plum. Although plum belongs to the Rosaceae family, it should only be used as a rootstock if other suitable seedlings are unavailable.

Methods of grafting

There are several methods for attaching a cutting to the main trunk, but three are most commonly used: copulation, bark grafting, and cleft grafting. The first method is the simplest. Select the strongest, smoothest, and undamaged branch from the main tree. Make a 30° angle cut on the branch with a sharp pruning knife. Make a similar diagonal cut on the cutting, 1-2 mm from the bud. Make a single straight cut 3-4 cm from the diagonal cut. The resulting cutting is approximately 5 cm long, with one side cut at an angle and the other straight.

Caring for a seedling

Combining the rootstock and scion is part of successful grafting. Subsequent care of the grafted cherry tree is essential. To improve the tree's recovery, fertilize, inspect for pests, and water daily. The grafted area should be tightly sealed with plastic wrap or covered with garden pitch. This is necessary to prevent the penetration of pathogens and excess moisture.