Cucumber variety "Borisych f1": agricultural technology for a bountiful harvest

The Borisych F1 cucumber variety is a hybrid, hence its many advantages. It is known to combine the best features of other varieties, and Borisych F1 proves this once again. It was included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements Approved for Use in the Russian Federation in 2007 and is approved for cultivation in the Northern, Northwestern, Central, Volga-Vyatka, Central Black Earth, North Caucasus, and Middle Volga regions.

Appearance

The Borisych F1 variety is indeterminate, meaning its stem grows without limit, reaching 2.5 meters in height. The leaves are very large, light green, and have slightly wavy edges, providing the plant with the necessary shade. The plant grows vigorously, with a moderately vigorous growth habit.

Characteristic features of cucumbers:

1. The fruit is heavily tuberculate with small white spines.
2. The length reaches 20 cm, and the weight is slightly less than 200 g. In general, the fruits are neat and uniform in size.
3. They have a distinct cucumber aroma and are very juicy and crispy when bitten into.
4. The flesh is tender and has a slightly sweet flavor. The skin is medium-thick.
5. There is no bitterness even in overripe fruits.
6. Since the plant is a hybrid, the fruits often either have no seeds at all, or very few of them.

This variety was bred for salads, but only because its large size doesn't fit into jars for pickling and preserving. However, with a knife, this problem can be solved in a jiffy, as there are no other obstacles to using Borisych F1 cucumbers for pickling. Its pleasant flavor makes a wonderful addition to any dish. It will certainly add crunch and a summery aroma to salads.

Features of cultivation

Borisych F1 – parthenocarpic varietyIt doesn't require pollination, meaning it can be grown in greenhouses and under plastic covers. It produces predominantly female flowers, meaning there are virtually no male buds. The seeds have no embryos and are therefore completely useless when planted. However, some gardeners claim there's a little secret that will allow you to grow twice as much from one package:

• necessary before harvesting the crop collect several stepsons;
• prepare a small container of water;
• place them there and cover the container with film;
• After the sprouts have taken root, they need to be planted in the usual way.

This variety is mid-early, meaning it takes approximately 45-50 days from the emergence of shoots to the fruiting stage. It is primarily intended for cultivation in greenhouses, under plastic covers, and in open ground. It is highly productive, with one to three fruits set per node. One m produces 1000 berries per season.² you can get about:

• 18-19 kg of fruit if the plant is grown in a greenhouse;
• 15-16 kg, if in open ground.

The variety has high transportability properties and a high ability to retain its taste and appearance for a long time.

You should not plant cucumbers next to melons, as their seeds are carriers of many cucumber diseases.

Landing

There are several ways to plant: either by pre-growing seedlings or by sowing directly into the ground. For northern regions, the first method is best, as it guarantees a higher yield. For all other regions, direct planting is suitable.

The seeds must be prepared for planting:

1. All poor-quality seeds must be discarded. This can be done by eye or by soaking them in a 3% salt solution (poor-quality seeds will float). Before doing this, also make sure the seeds were purchased no more than 2-3 years ago, as they can lose their quality over time.
2. You can allow the seeds to germinate by placing them in wet gauze and removing them to a warm place for several days.
3. Harden the seeds. To do this, place them in the refrigerator for several days, along with a damp cheesecloth. This will increase their overall hardiness and resistance to weather changes.
4. To increase the seeds' resistance to cucumber diseases, before planting (only if you decide not to germinate or harden them), you can treat the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate.

Depending on where the crop is placed, seedlings can be planted during the period:

• from March 20 to 30, for further planting in a greenhouse;
• from April 10 to 20, for further planting in open ground.

Prepared seeds are planted individually in special containers; peat pots are the most convenient, as they decompose completely in the soil when exposed to external factors. The seedlings are placed in a sunny, well-ventilated area, such as a window, balcony, or terrace. However, once the sprouts emerge, they should be moved to a cooler location. Watering the seedlings should be infrequent—about a couple of times a week.

Once the sprout has 3-4 petals, it's ready for transplanting. This takes about a month.

Another very important step is preliminary soil preparation for planting:

1. After harvesting the previous crop, it is necessary to remove all plant debris, as they can carry cucumber diseases and retain them for several years. If the infection gets into the soil, it will be very difficult to remove.
2. Next, you need to ensure the soil has a normal pH level. To do this, inspect the area. If plantain, horsetail, sedge, mint, buttercup, and chickweed are actively growing, the soil is acidic and should be limed with lime, ash, or chalk. Alternatively, you can use a special pH tester.
3. Then, check to see if the crop rotation principle is being violated, meaning that no conflicting plants have grown in the selected area for five years. Otherwise, the expected and actual yield may not match.

In the fall, dig the bed to a depth of approximately 20 cm, then apply natural fertilizers such as manure, compost, or peat. However, if the soil has been treated with lime, manure will not work. Mulching – covering the fertile soil layer for the winter. The following can be used as mulch:

• straw;
• sawdust;
• dry leaves.

In the spring, dig the bed again to the same depth, mixing in humus to a layer of about 12 cm. You can fertilize it with manure if you didn't do so in the fall. Next, water the bed and cover it with plastic wrap to warm it up. A few days before planting, you can fertilize the soil with any mineral fertilizer; cucumbers love it.

Seedlings or seeds are planted at approximately:

• from April 20 to May 1 in the greenhouse;
• under film cover from May 10 to 20;
• into open ground around the beginning of June, but for this the air must be warmed up to at least 16-18 ^OThere should be no night frosts, otherwise the plants will die before they have time to take root.

Before planting, make small holes in the bed, approximately 2 cm deep. Place the seedlings or seeds in these holes, cover with soil, and water. To increase germination, cover the bed with plastic wrap after planting until the first shoots appear.

Care

For this variety of cucumbers you need build trellises, as its vines are very long and there's a risk of breakage. Furthermore, when the stem reaches the top of the trellis, it's lowered, which makes harvesting much easier.

Watering:

1. It should be done approximately twice a week until the fruits appear, and then every other day.
2. You need to monitor changing weather conditions: if the weather is cloudy, you shouldn’t overwater the plants; if it’s hot outside, you need to water them more often.
3. Watering cucumbers It's best to water the roots with warm water in the morning or evening. Don't water the plants in hot weather!

Immediately after watering, the soil should be loosened to ensure the root system receives the necessary amount of water and oxygen. Remarkably, loosening the soil not only positively affects the plant's growth but also helps eliminate root parasites and is an excellent preventative for cucumber diseases.

Regular weeding is equally important. Without it, bacteria, viruses, and parasites from weeds can easily spread to cucumbers. Some diseases can lead to the inevitable death of the plant. To prevent cucumber infestations, you can treat the plants themselves or the greenhouse with special products.

The Borisych F1 variety is suitable for long-term storage. It can last up to two weeks in the refrigerator, provided condensation doesn't accelerate the wilting process. For this purpose, it's best to place the fruits in a paper bag or simply wrap them in paper. They can also be stored in a cellar for a very long time, provided they are kept dry and at moderately low temperatures. Some gardeners report that the variety retains its flavor even when frozen in pieces.

Reviews

Galina, 48 years old

I adore cucumbers of this variety. I love summer salads, and this variety is the king of cucumbers for me. They have delicate skin and a delicious crunch, and they pair well with everything from tomatoes to crab sticks. And what an aroma they impart! You immediately feel summer in all its glory.

Evgeniy, 62 years old

I planted this variety last year. The store said it was for greenhouses, but I was lazy and planted the seeds in an open bed in June (my wife had sprouted them in cheesecloth beforehand). Almost all the seeds sprouted. I had no problems with them; just weeding and watering were enough. This year, my neighbors planted the same on my recommendation and were also pleased.

David, 58 years old

If it weren't for Borisych, we wouldn't have cucumbers this year. Oh, it was worth it I bought them, because the other variety I planted almost completely died from powdery mildew, but this one survived! The cucumbers are impressive. Just right for our large family. The taste is simply amazing: tender, crisp, not a trace of bitterness.

Borisych F1 is a high-quality hybrid variety. It produces a bountiful harvest of delicious fruit. It requires little maintenance, and follows standard agricultural practices.