The most frost-resistant cherry varieties for the Urals and Siberia

The harsh climate beyond the Ural Mountains is ill-suited for growing such a heat-loving fruit crop as cherries. But gardeners are patient people; they experiment, try, and achieve good results. Cherry varieties have been developed that bear fruit in the Urals and Siberia and successfully survive cold winters. Manufacturers' catalogs offer detailed descriptions and photos of frost-resistant varieties, so with proper tree care, you can delight yourself with a wonderful sweet berry.

Features of cherry cultivation in the Urals and Siberia

The region is known for its cold winters and short summers. However, the differences in climate between the different regions of the Urals and Siberia are quite noticeable. Eastern Siberia's climate is harsh, with temperatures often reaching -45ºC to -50ºC, necessitating the selection of frost-resistant varieties with specific shapes and careful consideration of shelter. Western Siberia and the Urals have slightly milder climates, but they still experience unusually cold temperatures, and winters are long and harsh.

Consistent warmth arrives late, and the risk of recurrent frosts is high. Gardeners take this factor into account when choosing varieties that are resistant to spring frosts, with late flowering but early ripening. Summers are short, often hot, and with little rainfall. Cherry trees must have time to bloom without being hit by recurrent frosts and produce a harvest quickly.

Select species genetically engineered to form a small crown. Trees 4-5 meters tall are inherently susceptible to freezing and are therefore unsuitable for planting. Suitable varieties should tolerate pruning well or belong to the creeping (decaying) group, which can be easily covered for the winter.

Cherry varieties for the Ural region and Siberia

Varieties are classified according to the following characteristics:

• fruit color (yellow, red, pink);
• Berry ripening time (early, mid-early, mid-late, late). Early cherries ripen in mid-June, while late cherries are ready for picking in late July or early August;
• By trunk height. It is advisable to choose low-growing varieties, using bush training, and also grow creeping varieties.

The characteristics and descriptions provided are tentative, as flowering and fruiting periods vary depending on weather conditions and care. According to gardeners, if dog rose (Rosa canina) grows wild in a certain area, the fruit tree is sure to yield a bountiful harvest.

The best cherry varieties for the Urals and Siberian regions

The primary criterion when choosing a cherry variety for planting in Siberia and the Urals is winter hardiness. Varieties that successfully bear fruit in the south, due to their characteristics, will not perform well in harsh climates. Therefore, breeders focused primarily on developing frost-resistant varieties.

Scientists at the Bryansk Breeding Station (a group led by M.V. Kanshina) are conducting extensive work, having succeeded in developing fruit crop varieties, including columnar cherries, that can successfully withstand temperatures as low as -30ºC…-35ºC.

The group of early varieties includes:

• Iput The first harvest occurs in the 4th or 5th year of cultivation. The berries are medium-sized, heart-shaped, and dark red in color, turning crimson, almost black, when overripe. They tolerate harsh winters well, but require shelter. The fruit is used for processing. The Iput cherry is considered one of the best varieties for juice production.
• Fatezh – named after a city in the Kursk region. Included in the State Register (since 2001), recommended for planting in the Northwest region. Characteristics: high wood winter hardiness, average bud hardiness; drought tolerance; self-sterile. The first berry harvest occurs in the fourth year. The berries are red-yellow, slightly flattened, and have a good taste;
• 
• Krasnaya Gorka is a low-growing cherry tree, growing to 2-2.5 meters. It has a dense crown and requires regular thinning. It is highly winter-hardy (down to -33ºC), rarely freezing, and the tree recovers quickly. Pollinators (Raditsa, Ovstuzhenka) are required. The berries are golden with a purple tint, weigh 4-6 g, and have a good flavor.
• Chermashnaya – the berries ripen by mid-June. The fruits are yellow with a slight pinkish blush, weighing 3-5 g. The flesh is juicy and sweet, and the pit is easy to remove. The wood is resistant to low temperatures, but the buds are more vulnerable;
• Mayskaya is a tree with small fruits (2-4 g) with a "seam." The color is dark red. The flesh is dense and slightly sweet. This variety is not suitable for processing; it is used fresh;
• Ovstuzhenka is a well-known cherry variety among gardeners. It produces a good harvest of berries. The fruits are ruby-colored, juicy, and have tender flesh. They weigh 4-6 g and ripen by mid-June. It requires pollinators (Tyutchevka, Iput).

Varieties bred in Bryansk and Moscow are distinguished by increased frost resistance and excellent flavor. Not everyone believes that this juicy and sweet berry was grown in Siberia or the Urals.

Of the mid-season cherry varieties, the following are suitable for the Urals, Siberia and the Far East:

• Teremoshka is a small tree with rounded shoots. The berries weigh 5-6.6 g, are dark red, and sweet. The pit is easily removed from the pulp, and the taste score is 4.7 on the tasting scale.
• Annushka is a cold-resistant variety. It produces straight, slightly thickened shoots that form a rounded crown. The leaves are large and light green. Fruiting begins in the 4th to 5th year. The fruits are round, burgundy, and have juicy flesh. Weight: 4-6 g. Taste: 4.9 points.
• "Memory of Astakhov" is a new large-fruited cherry variety, included in the State Register in 2014. The tree grows up to 3-4 meters and produces a good harvest of berries in any season. The fruits are pinkish-red, weigh 6-8 grams, and are delicious. Gardeners in the Urals and Siberian regions speak highly of this variety, noting its resistance to low temperatures (down to -32ºC). For pollination, plant Iput, Ovstuzhenka, or Revna cherries nearby.
• Adelina – produces heart-shaped, dark red fruits. Intended for dessert. Self-sterile, winter-hardy (wood).

Late, closer to the beginning of August, berries of the following varieties ripen:

• Odrinka – since 2004, the variety has been included in the State Register. This cherry ripens late, producing large berries (up to 7 g), round, with a narrow funnel, and visible dots in the center. Flavor – 4.7 points (out of a possible 5). The fruit color is crimson, the flesh is juicy. Fruiting begins in the fifth year;
• Bryanochka is a medium-sized tree with a sparse crown. Berries weigh 4-5 g, have a rich flavor, and a small stone. According to a tasting rating, the flavor is 5 out of 5. For pollination, it's best to plant the Tyutchevka variety;
• 
• Michurinskaya Late – a fast-growing variety that produces dark-red berries. The fruit's skin is firm, making it suitable for transportation. Weight: 4-6 g;
• Tyutchevka forms a small tree with a beautiful, rounded crown. Fruiting begins in the fifth year, with heavy harvests beginning in the 10th year of cultivation. Pollinators (Raditsa, Iput) are required. It tolerates frosts down to -25ºC; at temperatures below -30ºC, the buds may freeze. The berries weigh 5-7 g, are round, and dark red with spots. The fleshy, sweet pulp exudes juice. The fruits are suitable for transportation.
• Bryanskaya Rozovaya (Bryanskaya Pink) has been included in the State Register since 1993. The tree is medium-sized, with a pyramidal crown. The round berries weigh 4-6 g, are yellow with purple speckles, and the juice is colorless. The flavor is slightly tart. Suitable for all types of processing.
• Veda – a sweet cherry tree added to the State Register in 2009. A versatile variety, its berries ripen late (by early August), weigh 4.8-5.1 g, and have a rich, sweet flavor. This cherry tree requires a lot of water and can withstand temperatures down to -30ºC.

Among the tasty winter-hardy varieties, the following are praised: Pervenets, Pervaya Lastochka, Kordia, Pink Pearl, and Surprise.

Cherry trees in Siberia and the Urals: planting and care

In general, planting and cultivation practices for this crop are standard. However, due to the climate, certain cultivation nuances must be taken into account and recommendations from breeders and experienced gardeners must be followed. It is essential to graft the crop onto a specific rootstock (frost-resistant, adapted to local conditions), and to purchase scions only from nurseries or collectors.

We've accumulated useful information on cherry varieties and planting experience in Siberia and the Urals, along with statistics. Using this experience and advice, you can avoid mistakes and get a healthy harvest even in risky farming regions.

Site preparation

This southern crop is demanding when it comes to planting. To ensure a good harvest, choose a sunny spot protected from cold winds and drafts.

There should be no holes or lowlands nearby; the trees themselves should be planted on elevated ground. Cherries do not tolerate overwatering, immediately reacting to excess moisture with stunted growth. High soil moisture can cause the root collar to become wet, causing the trunk to rot, which ultimately leads to the death of the trees.

Soils should be loose, permeable, and fertile. Cherries prefer black soil, light loam, or sandy loam. The pH should be no lower than 5.5. Acidic soils should be limed and dolomite flour added. The following are not suitable for planting:

• clayey areas;
• peat bogs;
• acidic soils.

To mitigate harsh conditions, it's recommended to plant trees near a body of water. If the soil on the site isn't suitable for planting, prepare a nutrient-rich soil mix for the planting hole. Calculate the volume based on the fact that the plant will grow over time and its nutritional needs will increase.

Gardeners with low-lying plots should install drainage systems and create small mounds for cherry trees. Place slate sheets in the planting holes to protect the root system from overwatering.

Prepare the site and planting hole in the fall, adding fertilizer. Don't leave the hole without nutrient solution until spring, as the snow melts and it will take a long time to dry out. The nutrient solution should be:

• well-rotted manure or compost;
• humus (1-1.5 buckets);
• wood ash (1-1.5 liters);
• superphosphate (100-150 g).

On dense soils, add 8-10 liters of river sand to the mixture.

Timing of planting cherries

Prepared cherry seedlings are planted In the spring, fall planting is out of the question. However, since the risk of recurrent frosts in these regions remains until late May or early June, work is planned no earlier than mid-May.

Wait until the snow cover has completely melted and the ground has warmed before planting. Choose bushes that are 1-2 years old, with no damage to the bark, branches, or buds in the crown area. The crown should contain 3-5 branches, each at least 35-40 cm long.

Planting: the main stages

As soon as the weather warms up, planting begins. Cherry trees are planted according to the standard pattern:

• in a hole filled with a nutrient mixture, make a depression large enough to accommodate the tree roots;
• soak the roots in a growth stimulator (keep the time according to the instructions);
• place the seedling in the hole and straighten the roots;
• sprinkle with soil, compact the soil slightly and water generously.

The root collar shouldn't be buried deep. It should be level with the ground or slightly above. Experienced gardeners recommend positioning the seedling at an angle, which will make it easier to cover it in the fall before wintering.

Caring for the crop

After planting, the young tree receives comprehensive care. Contrary to expectations, heat-loving cherries don't require any complex care. The basic steps are:

• watering;
• pruning;
• fertilizing (not needed in the year of planting);
• preventive treatments;
• mulching.

The norms and frequency of watering, the types of fertilizers applied are determined by the specific growing conditions of the crop, the condition and age of the tree.

Watering

Although summers in Siberia are short, they are often hot. Therefore, regular watering and soil moisture monitoring are essential for this moisture-loving plant. Avoid excessive moisture and dry out. The former causes cherry blossoms to shed their blossoms, while the latter leads to crown and root rot.

If there is no mulch, loosen the soil around the tree. It is advisable to increase irrigation during the cherry blossom season, as this will increase yield.

Fertilization

During the first year after planting, cherry trees don't require additional fertilizing. The tree thrives on the fertilizer added to the soil in the planting hole. Subsequently, the plantings are fertilized each season with the following nutrient solutions:

• in spring, complex fertilizers (nitrophoska) are applied;
• in mid-summer, superphosphate is added to the soil;
• at the end of the summer period – potassium monosulfate, wood ash.

When growing cherries in sandy soils, organic matter can be added. In all other cases, manure or compost should not be added. Experience shows that nitrogen supplementation stimulates vigorous foliage growth. While shoots grow rapidly, lignification is inhibited. This has a detrimental effect on the overall development and fruiting of the crop. Therefore, nitrogen supplementation is recommended only in early spring, in limited quantities.

Mulching

Mulching the area around cherry trees produces good results. Hay and straw are used to inhibit weed growth and retain moisture.

Mulch protects the soil from freezing, prevents moisture from evaporating immediately, and reflects sunlight. Covering the soil with grass clippings or sawdust replaces loosening, simplifying plant maintenance.

Formative pruning

Cherry is a tall tree, but in Siberia and the Urals, this is a serious drawback. These tall, vigorous trees cannot be protected for the winter, so pruning is used to limit branch growth.

Features of pruning:

• Remove branches growing toward the trunk. They don't produce berries, but they draw a lot of nutrients. Pruning reduces the stress on the tree;
• cut off the side branches, leaving the ends of the shoots unchanged.

There are various options for crown formation:

• creeping form (creeping form);
• single-tier (without a central conductor), bowl-shaped. 4-6 skeletal branches are left on the tree;
• Sparsely tiered. Three tiers are formed, leaving a space of approximately 60-80 cm between them.

To slow down the growth of branches, remove the conductor, cut off thickened areas and deformed shoots.

Disease prevention and pest control

A harsh climate is one of the factors that protects trees from infections and pest attacks. In such conditions, cherries are rarely affected by diseases and insects, although preventative spraying is essential.

Among the insects, the following are dangerous:

• cherry sawflies;
• aphid;
• cherry fly;
• Cherry false scale.

For prevention, biological compounds (Fitoverm, Lepidocide) that do not contain harmful toxins are used. The advantage of these insecticides is that they can be used as needed, even during flowering and fruiting, without fear of harming trees or pollinating insects. In severe cases, Actellic is effective against pests, but spraying the plantings with the compound should only be done after harvest.

The main diseases of cherries include:

• coccomycosis;
• Clusterosporiosis;
• moniliosis;
• Bacterial burn.

For preventative spraying, use Bordeaux mixture (1%) and Horus (before flowering). For treatment, spray the cherry trees with Fitosporin and Trichodermin at the first signs of infection.

Chemical fungicides are effective, but not safe. It's important to follow the instructions, application timing, and the fruit formation and ripening period. It's best to prevent an outbreak, as the disease spreads quickly in hot summers and high humidity, making it much more difficult to cure the tree than to prevent it.

To boost immunity and stress resistance, treatment with Epin and Zircon is recommended. Cherry trees are sprayed after fruiting, closer to autumn. Treated trees better withstand cold and long winters in the harsh conditions of the Urals and Siberia.

Preparing cherries for winter

A long winter is a serious challenge for this heat-loving crop. Without protection and preparation, cherries won't survive the frost and will die. Therefore, preparations for winter begin as early as August.

Main events:

• Bending tree branches to the ground. This method makes it easier to cover plantings before the cold weather sets in;
• timely pruning of cherry tree shoots and growths;
• Removing upper shoots if they are not yet mature. The degree of maturity is determined by lignification; it's important that the shoots enter the winter strong and lignified. Pinching accelerates the process and increases the tree's frost resistance;
• Spraying (defoliation) of leaves if they haven't fallen by mid-September. Apply a solution of ferrous sulfate or urea to accelerate leaf fall and flower bud formation.

Tree trunks and branches that are not planned to be bent are whitewashed with permanent whitewash. Clay, a mixture of hot pepper, and mullein are added to regular lime. Whitewashing is done after the leaves have fallen.

Growing cherries in Siberia and the Urals in a basal form

Breeders developing new winter-hardy cherry varieties note that crop failures and frost damage can occur in any year. The harsh climate of this region is too unpredictable, and even careful care can't prevent problems.

But gardeners aren't giving up hope, opting for the creeping cherry tree method. This involves bending the tree toward the ground and planting the seedlings at a 45-degree angle. Experience shows that this method protects the trees from scorching winds and frosts, and they successfully survive the winter.

Recommendations:

• When planting a tree, the seedling is placed at an angle in the planting hole;
• a small mound is made in the hole and the cherry tree is placed on it;
• the root collar is not buried;
• Trees are planted near buildings, fences, and hedges, which will serve as protection for creeping cherries.

Side branches are removed promptly, shoots are shortened, and shoots are bent down. Advantages of creeping cultivation:

• Cherries successfully overwinter under a layer of snow;
• there are no temperature fluctuations, so the trees are in comfortable conditions;
• In spring, cherry trees wake up on time and start growing quickly;
• branches located close to the ground surface warm up faster and better in the summer, which leads to increased yield;
• the wood of creeping trees matures faster, there is no need to pinch the shoots at the end of summer;
• It is easier to care for such plantings than for vertical trees;
• Edging cherries are less susceptible to infections and insects.

According to gardeners, more berries are harvested from cherries grown in this manner.

Common mistakes gardeners make

When growing cherries, even experienced gardeners make mistakes in their cultivation techniques, not to mention those just starting out. Here are some common mistakes:

• Incorrect variety selection. There are no cherry tree varieties zoned for the Urals and Siberia; varieties suitable for cultivation and distinguished by winter hardiness have been developed. These should be prioritized, but thorough care must be ensured.
• violations of agricultural technology;
• Lack of knowledge about the specifics of the crop, the principles of crown formation, and growing in a creeping form. Having decided to plant a cherry tree, it is necessary to study the literature, learn from the experiences of other gardeners, and consider the recommendations of breeders;
• Crop rotation violations on the plot. Cherries are planted after apple and pear trees, excluding predecessors such as cherries and plums;
• unsuitable soil at the planting site.

The first full harvests begin to appear after approximately 4-5 years (subject to proper agricultural practices and good care). Therefore, patience is essential, and the results are sure to please.

Reviews

Oleg, Satka

My parents have several cherry trees growing at their dacha. My father dreams of a bountiful harvest, but so far the harvest hasn't been particularly plentiful. The berries are sweet and delicious, though. We grow Chermashnaya and Iput, but haven't tried any others. For the winter, we cover them with agrofibre, construct a structure, and hide the crowns. Of course, the berries don't taste as good as those from the south, but we still enjoy them.

Irma, Kurgan

The Leningradskaya Chernaya variety has been growing in my garden for three years now. It bloomed in its first season and has set fruit. I'm as happy as a child, really wanting to try my own berries. The tree is already two meters tall, so I cover it for the winter. I also had another variety, Chkalov, but it froze in its first winter. I believe a lot depends on the planting location and conditions, as even winter-hardy varieties can suffer in unforeseen circumstances.

Growing sweet cherries in Siberia and the Urals is a challenging task. But by choosing winter-hardy varieties and providing proper tree care, you can reap a handsome harvest of sweet berries in 5-6 years.